Onward, Krispy soldiers

The mills had been producing legions of the Original Glazed since well before dawn yesterday. Equipment capable of producing 200 dozen doughnuts per hour never slowed, whirring full-steam to fill the thousands of eager bellies that flooded the store.

The Toronto Star
December 12, 2001

Onward, Krispy soldiers
Before glazed eyes, 200 dozen dough lumps an hour march to glory at new mmmmporium
Christian Cotroneo

About a dozen officers are on the scene. Amid flashing lights, they stop each passing car.

Sergeant Frank Denreyer leans into a driver's window.

"You want to buy a doughnut?

The driver nods.

"Go into the left lane here."

While the shopping mall on the corner of Mavis Rd. and Plymouth Dr. in Mississauga may have looked like an accident scene yesterday, it all came about by careful design. Years of planning went into the opening of Krispy Kreme's first Canadian location — and the first of 32 slated for Ontario, Quebec and the
Atlantic provinces in the next six years.

Throngs of doughnut aficionados from across the city snaked into a tent, through the side door and finally to the front counter where glazed goodies met glazed eyes. And no mouth was more eager than that of Terry Reeves, a lifelong doughnut devotee who has been seeing rings ever since he heard Krispy Kreme would be located only six minutes from his Mississauga home.

"I got them on the Web site," the 41-year old says. "I even researched them all."

Normally, he likes to scarf back about six doughnuts a week, but he made an exception for Canada's first Krispy Kreme outlet.

"It'll be two dozen doughnuts this week," he says with conviction and a free sample in his hand. "They're the best doughnuts you'll ever have. That's for sure."

And health is no hindrance. The Original Glazed — Krispy Kreme's flagship doughnut — packs about 11 grams of fat. Despite its relatively low profile on Krispy Kreme's sugar-spangled menu, eating one is like eating more than a McDonald's hamburger worth of fat. Sugar accounts for nearly a quarter of its
52-gram form.

Even so, Reeves is hardly trimming his intake.

"It doesn't come into play," he says. "I just love the doughnuts. It's a treat."

At a Tim Horton's a few kilometres away, there's a buzz in the air. And it's not just the coffee. Many of the patrons at this Eglinton Ave. and Hurontario St. location have heard about the new doughnut on the block. But they're keeping clear.

"We both have high cholesterol, so we stay away from it," Joe Zaher says, relaxing with a friend. While Tim Horton's has a similarly seductive array of fat-rich products, Zaher likes his coffee. And few, he says, do it better than Tim.

"Ninety per cent of the time, I'm coming here for the coffee, not the doughnut," says another patron, Dave Benedetti. And there's something else, he adds, that Krispy Kreme just can't cook up.

"Tim Horton's is part of Canadian culture any way you dice it."

In recent years Tim Horton's has reached beyond the humble doughnut, adding soup and sandwiches to its regular line-up.

At Krispy Kreme, doughnuts take centre stage. Yesterday's customers received a glossy page with each of the store's 15 flavours laid out like centrefolds: powdered blueberry, chocolate iced, glazed devil's food.

More like food of the angels, according to Reeves. "It's just out of this world," he beams.

Roly Morris, president of Kremeko Inc., calls it theatre of the doughnut.

Original glazed doughnuts roll out before patrons' eyes like soldiers marching to battle; wave after wave created, conditioned and crated to conquer taste buds. It's a humble beginning for the company's frontline troops. They start out as doughy lumps before being defined by the cutter. Next, they swim along a bubbling river of vegetable oil.

Enter the glaze — a white syrup that oozes over the back of each sweet soldier and quickly turns honey-brown. The doughnuts then march on to the retail curve, where employees pluck each one using long white sticks.

Then they meet their real maker — the salivating mouth of a near-feverish customer. Chewing is optional for the still-warm doughnuts. If the mouth is completely still for any length of time, the Original Glazed will literally melt.

The mills had been producing legions of the Original Glazed since well before dawn yesterday. Equipment capable of producing 200 dozen doughnuts per hour never slowed, whirring full-steam to fill the thousands of eager bellies that flooded the store.


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Risks: More doughnut shops per capita than anywhere in the world, Development deal hype, Pump-and-dump scheme, Development deal collapses before risk shifted from initial investors to sub franchisees, Canada, 20011212 Onward Krispy

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